Roughly 13,500 window air conditioners sold under the Amana name are now the subject of a federal recall, and the timing could not be worse. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission announced the recall on June 25, flagging a defect that can leave the unit's heating element energized during a ground fault even after the power switch is off. That combination — heat, moisture, and a live component nobody expects to be live — is a burn and fire risk, and it lands right as much of the country is running air conditioners around the clock.
If you bought a window or through-the-wall AC unit in the last few years and it carries the Amana badge, it is worth five minutes to check. Here is what happened, how to tell if your unit is affected, and what else is worth inspecting on any air conditioner, recalled or not, before the next heat wave hits.
What's Actually Being Recalled
The units in question were manufactured by Daikin Comfort Technologies Manufacturing and sold under the Amana brand at major retailers and online marketplaces. According to the CPSC notice, the heating element inside affected units can remain energized during a ground fault condition even when the unit has been turned off — meaning the failure isn't limited to units that are actively running. That is the detail that makes this recall different from a routine "stop using it if it smells hot" warning: the hazard exists even in a unit sitting quiet in the window.
No universal fix has been offered for owners to perform themselves. The CPSC's guidance is straightforward: stop using the unit and contact the company for the remedy being offered, which at the time of the announcement includes a refund process for affected models.
How to Check Whether Your Unit Is Affected
Before doing anything else, find three pieces of information on your unit:
- Brand name — printed on the front grille or top panel, usually "Amana" in block lettering.
- Model number — on a rating label, typically on the side panel or back of the unit near the power cord. It's often a mix of letters and numbers, sometimes partly hidden by the mounting bracket.
- Serial number — on the same label as the model number, usually below or beside it.
You will likely need a flashlight and, if the unit is already installed, a step stool to read the back panel without pulling the whole thing out of the window frame. Take a photo of the label with your phone — it's the fastest way to have the numbers on hand if you end up on the phone with customer support or filling out an online claim form.
Once you have the model and serial number, cross-check them against the official recall listing on cpsc.gov, which lists the exact model and serial number ranges covered. Don't rely on memory or a general sense of "I think I bought that one" — ground-fault heating element failures aren't something to guess about.
What the CPSC Wants Affected Owners to Do
- Stop using the unit immediately, even if it seems to be working fine.
- Unplug it rather than just switching it off at the unit — the recall specifically notes the fault can occur regardless of switch position.
- Contact the manufacturer for the remedy process (refund, at the time of the recall announcement).
- Do not attempt to resell, donate, or otherwise pass along a recalled unit. Passing along a fire hazard doesn't make it not a fire hazard.
If you're not sure whether a claim has already been filed on a unit — say, you bought a house with a window AC already installed — it's still worth checking the serial number yourself rather than assuming the previous owner handled it.
Beyond This Recall: Electrical Safety Checks Worth Doing on Any AC Unit
A recall like this is a good prompt to look at the electrical side of your cooling setup in general, not just the one flagged model. None of the following takes more than a few minutes, and none of it requires an electrician for the basic check.
GFCI protection at the outlet
Window and portable air conditioners plugged into outlets near sinks, in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, or anywhere exposed to moisture should be on a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet — the kind with the small "test" and "reset" buttons. Press "test" once a month; the power should cut off, and "reset" should restore it. If it doesn't reset cleanly, that outlet needs attention before you plug anything back into it.
Cord and plug condition
Run a hand along the power cord from the unit to the outlet. Look for cracking, discoloration near the plug, or a plug that feels warm to the touch after the unit has been running. A window AC pulls a meaningful amount of current — cheap extension cords or worn factory cords are a common source of overheating that has nothing to do with any recall.
Breaker panel and dedicated circuits
Larger window units (typically anything above 8,000 BTU) draw enough current that manufacturers often recommend a dedicated 15- or 20-amp circuit. If your AC shares an outlet or circuit with a refrigerator, microwave, or other high-draw appliance and you've noticed the breaker tripping, that's not a coincidence — it's the circuit telling you it's maxed out. A licensed electrician can add a dedicated line for a few hundred dollars, which is considerably cheaper than the alternative.
Shopping for a Replacement: What Units Actually Cost Right Now
If your unit is one of the recalled models and you're past the point of waiting on a refund process, or you simply want to upgrade to something newer, here's a realistic picture of the current market at Home Depot and Lowe's.
- Small window units (5,000–6,000 BTU, good for a single bedroom): roughly $150–$220, with GE and Frigidaire models common at this size.
- Mid-size window units (8,000–10,000 BTU, good for a living room or larger bedroom): roughly $270–$400. LG and Midea are frequently stocked in this range.
- Large window/through-the-wall units (12,000–15,000 BTU): roughly $420–$600.
- Portable units (8,000–12,000 BTU equivalent): roughly $330–$550 — they cost more than a comparable window unit for less cooling capacity, which is the trade-off for not needing a window installation.
A quick sizing note: BTU needs roughly track square footage, with about 20 BTU per square foot as a starting point, adjusted upward for rooms with high ceilings, lots of west-facing glass, or a kitchen nearby. Buying oversized doesn't cool a room faster — it just cycles on and off more, which is harder on the compressor and less effective at pulling humidity out of the air.
Both retailers also list ENERGY STAR-certified models filtered separately on their sites, which is worth checking before buying — the efficiency difference on a unit that's going to run eight hours a day for three months adds up on the electric bill by August.
The Bottom Line
A recall notice is easy to scroll past, especially in the middle of a heat wave when the last thing anyone wants to do is turn off the AC. But a five-minute label check now is a lot less disruptive than dealing with the alternative later. Check the brand and model, cross-reference it against the CPSC listing, and while you're at the unit anyway, take the extra few minutes to check the outlet, the cord, and the breaker. None of it is complicated. All of it is worth doing before the next stretch of 95-degree days.